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In this Discussion
- 1049superg October 2009
- 46HudsonPU October 2009
- 48super6 September 2009
- Browniepetersen October 2009
- Ducor Kid September 2009
- hudsonguy September 2009
- hudsontech September 2009
- junkcarfann September 2009
- oldhudsons September 2009
- rpmonroe September 2009
- SamJ September 2009
Penetrating Fluid
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I got this info in a newsletter from welderseries.com.
Wondering if anyone had tried this mixture out.
Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist’s Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted†environment.
*Penetrating oil ….. Average load*
None …………………. 516 pounds
WD-40 ………………. 238 pounds
PB Blaster …………… 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ……… 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ………….. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix…….53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew†mix of 50 – 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the “home brew†was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that “Liquid Wrench†is about as good as “Kroil†for about 20% of the price.
LarryLooking for a salty piece of land!
Central California -
Very interesting
thanx -
odd they left out Marvel Mystery Oil
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A trick an old mechanic taught me was to spray both brake pad cleaner and WD-40 or some other penetrating oil simultaneously on the frozen part.
The cleaner thins the penetrating oil, and it seeps in better than the thicker oil alone, which is what the Acetone and ATF is doing, only that must be thicker than a solvent with a penetrating oil. -
HETfortyqtpi@earthlink.net (drop the HET)
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Mouse milk, mouse pads - what will they think of next!!!!!!!!!
Hudsonly,
Alex Burr
Memphis, TN -
Larry- do you have any more info on how the testing was done? I've tried just about every product out there by now. I'll have to try the home brew and see how it works. For really frozen nuts, I always thought PB Blaster was OK if I would soak the parts and keep reapplying for a few days. And I thought Liquid Wrench was just "average", so I'm surprised to see the results. I'm sure the time factor on really stubborn parts has a lot to do with it and would guess the ratings may change if tested that way.
I also like Jig-A-Loo which I've tried recently- it seams to work well.
One of my old favorites was the Hudson dripless penetrating oil. It had a funny odor but it worked (still got acouple of cans left!). -
what I've used for many years on engines, for instance, that have sat for prolonged periods, is a "home brew" of Marvel Mystery Oil & WD-40, 50-50, & it has worked well, including freeing up "frozen" engines.
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48super6 wrote:Larry- do you have any more info on how the testing was done? I've tried just about every product out there by now. I'll have to try the home brew and see how it works. For really frozen nuts, I always thought PB Blaster was OK if I would soak the parts and keep reapplying for a few days. And I thought Liquid Wrench was just "average", so I'm surprised to see the results. I'm sure the time factor on really stubborn parts has a lot to do with it and would guess the ratings may change if tested that way.
I also like Jig-A-Loo which I've tried recently- it seams to work well.
One of my old favorites was the Hudson dripless penetrating oil. It had a funny odor but it worked (still got acouple of cans left!).
The info was from in a newsletter. I'm trying to find the whole story so I can check it out further.
LarryLooking for a salty piece of land!
Central California -
I've seen ads in OCW and Hemmings for this product, although I know nothing else about it. They do offer a money back guarantee!
http://www.seized-engine.com/ -
Hmmm... What type of ATF is used in the home brew? Dextron or Type F? Does it matter?
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The element of heat applied with the various oils also helps. The problem is if you thin any of the oils with a carbon based cleaner (MEK, TCE, Acetone, etc.) the flamability is reduced a great deal. What I normally do is use the ATF-WD 40 and after a few days move it out side, heat the bolt up with a torch and as it cools down apply some of the oil mix and try working it. I have had a lot of success and some interesting experiences,,,,Brownie
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Browniepetersen wrote:The element of heat applied with the various oils also helps. The problem is if you thin any of the oils with a carbon based cleaner (MEK, TCE, Acetone, etc.) the flamability is reduced a great deal. What I normally do is use the ATF-WD 40 and after a few days move it out side, heat the bolt up with a torch and as it cools down apply some of the oil mix and try working it. I have had a lot of success and some interesting experiences,,,,
Out of curiosity, what were some of the interesting experiences?!! -
Mostly fire. Burns somewhat like a match. I have had one or two explode when I added the mix while the head bolt was red/white hot.... Seldom can you use the bolt after this process; but, I go to Grade 8 bolts anyway...Brownie
