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In this Discussion
- Clutch guy June 2009
- DaveFury June 2009
- jjbubaboy June 2009
- Park_W June 2009
- rambos_ride June 2009
- SuperDave June 2009
WA1 Needle and Seat ??
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Yikes!
The original needle attached to the float via a small clip which pulls the needle up or down.
Looking at the Dayton Kit supplied needle and seat I think I am going to use the originals instead as tThe Dayton needle just locates with fuel pressure and the float tab only AND - it has a small rubber tip on the end of the needle that could cause mucho problems with the fuels used today.
My Dayton kits are YEARS old and came with the 50 Super
What have others used when rebuilding their carbs? Which needle seat design did you "stick" with?
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rambos_ride wrote: »Yikes!
Dan, see the thread "Tired of overflowing carbs?" on this forum. New design ball float valve for WA-1s that eliminates the very common problem of valves hanging up when the car's been sitting for a few days. It's a no-brainer. I've got them on my Twin-H Hornet and one on my '47 C8 (non-advertised application, but it's working!) -
Park W wrote:rambos_ride wrote: »Yikes!
Dan, see the thread "Tired of overflowing carbs?" on this forum. New design ball float valve for WA-1s that eliminates the very common problem of valves hanging up when the car's been sitting for a few days. It's a no-brainer. I've got them on my Twin-H Hornet and one on my '47 C8 (non-advertised application, but it's working!)
Here's the link:
http://www.classiccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17837&highlight=needle+seatDave W.
What's life without a Hudson? -
DaveFury wrote:Park W wrote:
Doh! Completely forgot about these!
But, however I am utterly cash poor right now so I have to make what I have work
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Dan, as the directions say in these kits," They look different but are far superior than the standard needle and seat". If you install them correctly,these work very good. Make sure that you don't ruin the float,and the new float valve, when setting them. Make sure to set the float levels correct. I have used these for the last 3 years and have had NO problems with them. Something in the vintage auto business that seems everyone forgets is the gas tank and supply lines. These BOTH must be clean and free of varnish and sediment:eek:. Most only discover of other fuel related problems AFTER they have put a new fuel pump and carb/carbs on their cars. These new parts are now full of the same crap that was in the tank and now requires you to start ALL over with ALL new parts OR take the new components apart and clean them out completely and very throughly. This thread applies to more than just the Hudson marquee. Do yourself a favor and plan to restore the fuel system from front to back when you purchase the vehicle!!! a bad fuel system causes more engine related problems and frustration than anything!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hey Dan,
As referenced in the posting is the 'Craig valve'. I recently switched my carb over to a WA 1 and put one of those on it and it works great.
No problems, no leaks, no flooding. Understand the cash flow problem well myself but when you are able its worth the investment. Just MHO.
T Jeff -
jjbubaboy wrote:Hey Dan,
As referenced in the posting is the 'Craig valve'. I recently switched my carb over to a WA 1 and put one of those on it and it works great.
No problems, no leaks, no flooding. Understand the cash flow problem well myself but when you are able its worth the investment. Just MHO.
T Jeff
Ditto...... I had the same result with my twin H
