Post War Chevrolets Discussions on Classic Car Forum

1954 Chevrolet 210 Question

Beyond60 — Fri, 18 Jul 2008 21:36:35 +0000

I am restoring a 1954 Chevrolet. The motor and the original motor mounts have been removed. It was quite a hatchet job and the original position of the welded motor mounts can not be determined. Can anyone provide the distance in inches from the front spark plug to the front spindle centerline. I know there might be other ways of determining the correct position of the original motor mounts, but I prefer this particular measurement. Your assistance will be greatly appreciated!!

71 Corvette Stingray Headlights

homeslot — Tue, 12 Aug 2008 19:46:05 +0000

I have been restoring a 71 stingray and have problems with the headlights. The lights will not work automatically with the switch, only manually can I open and close them. I replaced the switch and vacuum regulator and still no luck. I checked the vacuum pressure and that is good. Is there anything else I should check with the vacuum system or other components? What could be the cause or causes for the headlights not to work by the switch?

1952 Chevy Club Coupe

PIERCEARROW1935 — Mon, 18 Jun 2007 01:11:49 +0000

Hi, I have a good freind that's looking for a 1952 Chevy Club Coupe, like the one he had as a kid. Found a 51, but he's not interested. Prefer a survior rather than a restored, as he wants use it as a daliy driver. Thanks, Steve

Gmc Truck

PIERCEARROW1935 — Sun, 05 Aug 2007 02:43:38 +0000

Hi, I have a freind who has a 1978 GMC 1/2ton with a 454 engine in it. It was purchased in Texas, new, by him. He is looking for a pair of "365" heads for it. Are there any around? If anybody is interested in a low-mile solid truck, he would consider selling it for the right price. Needs paint, and some trim pieces. Thanks Steve

1936 Chevy engine upgrade

Terraman — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 17:29:20 +0000

Hi fellows!

I am "resurrecting" a 1936 Chevy standard coupe using the "KIS" approach. I don't pretend to do many upgrades, other using 12V and swapping the old 207 for a better Chevy engine (always a six).

I understand a 235 is a much better choice and am aware that its a simple swap into a 1950 Chevy (for example) but wil it also go easily into my 36?

Anyway, I would like to go still one step further and use a 250 (or 230) instead of a 235.

Any comments or suggestions? Could I keep the old transmission (if treated gently). If not, should I use a six/seventies "modern" 3 speed, clutch & rear end (prefer not if avoidable).

Any ideas most welcome!!!

Thanks,

Lars

For Sale 1955 Chevy 2 Dr Hardtop

1954Hudson — Mon, 15 Oct 2007 22:59:43 +0000

NEW PARTS; NOS FRONT FENDERS, RE-CHROMED FRONT AND REAR BUMPERS AND BUMPER GUARDS, NEW FRONT CARPET, NEW ACCESSORY BUMPER PIECES FOR FRONT AND REAR, NEW REAR SPRINGS. $6500. 989-375-2771 mrnimtz@avci.net

Pontiac Press Kits

DJK — Mon, 31 Jan 2005 02:25:04 +0000

Recently came across a couple rare literature items, 1999 & 2000 Pontiac Press Kits given to media at major auto shows. The '99 kit is 12x9 in a paper boxed folder with a weak top that started to dog-ear the first time it was pitched into a briefcase. Details of all models plus a sheet of 20 35mm slides. It weighs 2.5 pounds. Dated Sept, 1998. Internal items mint. $80 plus $5 P&S

The Y2K version is in a special blue three ring binder and tips the scale at 5.1 pounds. It is the Advanced Media Information edition & has 48 slides of cars and details. Undated, 11.5x 10, Mint condition. $100 plus $8 P&H.

DJ Kava

1755 Bandera

Beaumont, TX 77706.

Monte Carlo 1987 & Older

Sun, 15 May 2005 09:33:10 +0000

1986 Monte Carlo SS For Sale - black, gray interior; "cherry", mint, all original.

We offer our 1986 Monte Carlo SS, with 305 HO V8 and automatic transmission.

Pristine black Super Sport with about 64K miles, Class Two show car, "Very Good"

Showroom running order. All records on file. Call for details. $8999 Minimum

Check it out! If you're interested in 80's SS pricing, post a reply or comment.

Email RayVFoss@aol.com for status Or call 304-428-5056

1955 Chevy Bel Air for sale

1954Hudson — Wed, 22 Jun 2005 01:39:13 +0000

For Sale. 1955 Chevy Bel Air, 4 door, automatic, 265 cu inch V-8, Wonder-bar radio, all original car, color Salmon/Gray. Been in storage for 25 years. $4800.00. Ron 989-375-2771. e-mail: mrnimtz@avci.net

1956 Bel Air FOR SALE

Non-Sequitur — Wed, 14 Jun 2006 19:37:09 +0000

FOR SALE: 1956 Chevrolet Bel Air 4 Door Sedan. It is equipped with the original straight six cylinder engine (235 ci), automatic powerglide transmission. The car has just over 52,000 miles. The color combination is copper/cream. I have owned the car for the past 12 years. It runs and drives very well, and is in good overall condition. Interior has been completely redone and is in excellent condition. Car was repainted before I owned it and it has several chips and scratches. It has newer wide white-wall tires. Some of the chrome has been rechromed while some is original. Price is $7500. Car is located in Caseville, Michigan (top of Thumb, 100 miles north of Detroit). For additional information email me at saintjms@hotmail.com or call 989-856-4812 -- James

Need to sell 1929 Chevy Truck

markj — Sun, 09 Jul 2006 01:37:10 +0000

Purple Chevy half ton, jaguar rear end, mustang front-end, 350, 4 bolt main, automatic trans. 561 723-6747 asking $7500

Fender skirts

bobbydamit — Sat, 09 Oct 2010 22:12:50 +0000

I am in need of a pair of fender skirts for my 1952 chevrolet delux 4 door. I think the skirts are the same for 50 to 53 but I coulod be wrong. I know they sell new reproduction ones on e bay but too spendy for me. we would just like a pair of used ones we can fill the space with to get that sleek 52 look. Any suggestions?? send a privite message or leave a message at work at 952-887-2514. Tanks folks.

First Generation Camaro Buyers Check List

dcatkin — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 04:34:23 +0000

This is a guide to help you find the perfect camaro.

Over the years I have loved the Chevrolet camaro, it's not quite like any other car ever built, my first muscle cars was a 1969 Z/28 camaro and I loved that car, I hope to help some one else find their perfect muscle car by writing this article.

In this article I will discuss some of the things that you should look at when you go to buy a classic camaro, we'll start off by checking the numbers on the car, and look at body, mechanical, electrical, and every other system that I can think of that will help you in the right car.

Let's dive in to this head first if your looking to restore the car, you should never fail to decode that numbers on the car, you'll have vin codes, RPO codes, casting numbers, and all of these numbers need to match up just right, unless you don't care about authenticity.

The Numbers To Decode:

1.The Vin Tag
2.The RPO Code
3.The Casting Numbers
4.Engine Date Codes

Next we'll move on to the body work on the car, you obviously want to get a car that is in the best shape possible for the amount of money that you have to spend, this is where you'll begin to need the patience, this could take a while, you may have to look at a lot of cars.

Body Work:

Well do a general inspection of the outside of the car first, during this inspection you'll bee looking for the tell tail signs of rust, and bad body repair work, these things should not be that difficult to see, you'll be looking for bubbles in the paint, wavy body work, or cracking plastic filler.

Panel Alignment:

1.Gaps should not be wider then 1/16 – 1/8 inch.

2.Misaligned panels indicate that the car has been wrecked.

3.Check the hood to fender alignment.

4.Check the hood to header panel alignment.

5.Check the hood to cowl panel alignment.

6.Check the fender to door gap & alignment.

7.Check the door to quarter panel gap & alignment.

8.Check the deck lid rear & side gaps for alignment.

Body Surface:

1.Check the body of the car for wavy body work.
2.Check for cracking plastic filler.
3.Check for bubble in the paint work.
4.Check for obvious dents.
5.Check for dull or faded paint.
6.Check for rust in the wheel wells.
7.Check for rust around the wheel wells.
8.Check for rust in the rocker panel.
9.Check the firewall for rust, if you can see it.
10.Check the trunk floor for rust.

Check The Bumper Height:

1.Make sure that the bumpers are not touching the body of the car, or sagging.

Under Hood & Engine:

First you'll want to check the general condition of the engine, and engine compartment, check the condition of the paint, and also check the chrome surfaces for peeling, dulling, or bluing.

1.Check for originality, if your a collector looking to add a new car to your collection, this might be the most important part of the process, basically you'll be looking for things that look out of place, or things that look like they don't belong.
2.Check the maintenance of the car, look at all of the hoses, electrical connections, belts, gaskets, fluid levels, engine oil, brake fluid, water in the battery.
3.Check the condition of the engine, if saving money is a concern to you, you should pay close attention to this step in the process, have the owner of the car start the engine, check the tail pipe for smoke when the car fist starts, after it warms up, and when it's revved up, listen for knocks, clunks, clicks, and rattles.
4.Check for leaks on the car, be sure to check the valve cover gaskets, check the front, and rear of the intake manifold for oil leaks, check the brake master cylinder for leaks, check all hoses for leaks, check the rear main seal this is a lot of work to fix if it leaks, check the oil pan for leaks, this is also a huge ordeal to fix, if you pay attention you can save yourself a lot of agony.

Interior Check:

1.Check the interior for obvious rips and tears in the fabric on the seats, and the doors, look for chrome peeling, light bulbs that no longer work, gauges that are so foggy that you can't even see them.
2.Check the center console for cracks, and mounting ears that have been broken.
3.Check all plastic items for cracking, and general sun rot, and exposure.
4.Also you should always check the rubber seals around the doors of the car, these should always be checked, I'd just replace them if it were my car.
5.Check the steering wheel for wear, such as cracks, missing areas of plastic, or it the car has tilt, or telescoping steering you need to make sure that all of those things are working right.

The Road Test:

1.Unless the car doesn't run, you should always road test it, no matter how much the owner wants to get out of it, during this test you should check the wipers, turn signals, gauges, lights, and don't forget to listen for bumps, knocks rattles, clanks, clunks,and the like.
2.Check the gauges for accuracy, lighting, and general appearance.
3.Mechanical check, during this check you'll be testing all of the mechanical areas of the car, you should check all of these things first in place, and then as the car is moving.
4.Check the park brake to see if it holds on an incline.
5.Doe's the manual transmission pop out of gear, this means a transmission rebuild, or at least replacing the synchros, does it shift smoothly, or is it hard to move between the gears, this indicate either a linkage problem, or low transmission oil, also if it's hard to pull in to gear, you probably need synchros replaced.
6.Test the clutch to make sure that you can get it to hold the car on an incline, if not this tells you that you need a new pressure plate, at which point you should just change the clutch, pressure plate, and through out bearing, this is a big job.
7.Also check the automatic transmission if it has one of those for slippage, give the fluid the old smell test, if it smells burned, you can count on a rebuild.

Braking:

This is truly one of the most important parts to your safety, you should never overlook a brake check, or think that the signs don't mean anything, if the brake do a thing other then stopping the car, you should be worried.

1.Make sure that the car doesn't pull to one side, or another this indicates that you have worn brake pads on you disc brakes, or a bad caliper on the side that the car pulls to, you never want to discount anything.

2.Listen to the brakes for noises, such as squealing, rattling, grinding these are all very bad sounds to have coming fro your brakes, personally I just rebuild the entire braking system on any old car, it's just the safest thing to do, this is not an area to save money in.

At Normal Driving Speeds:

1.Listen for noises that don't belong such as, a clunk as you go over a bump, a knock when you turn the steering wheel as you go over an incline.
2.Listen for wind blowing through the car, this always means that you need new rubber seals, this is something that I just plan to replace when I start the work.
3.Does the car shake, or shimmy while driving high way speeds, this indicates an wheel balancing issue, a bent rim, or the drive line needs to be balanced.
4.After a turn does the steering wheel return to center, if not this indicates an alignment issue, you could have a steering box on the way out, a steering wheel to shimmy can indicate suspension problems as simple as bad shocks, to much worse issues, this is not a good thing.

That's about all for this article, I hope it helps you find just the right camaro for you to restore, you've got to remember I write these articles to help you find your perfect car, and to get it restored, please stop in and comment on our articles if they help you.

http://autorevival.com/?p=2308

tri-carb setup

jif61 — Sat, 04 Jun 2011 01:05:15 +0000

Anyone out there made the change from the vacuum slider system to a progressive mechanical set up (linkage) to operate the front and rear carbs? Just ordered the linkage set and am wondering if anyone has installed one and what I might need to know prior to tackling the install. This is on a '61 impala. Thanks, Jon

Ball Joint ID

SuperDave — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 22:28:29 +0000

Back about 15 years ago i was involved in Stock car racing and had a few mid to late 70's Monte carlo street stock types.. I was always experimenting wirh the front end parts and geometry..Today i am cleaning out the garage getting ready to take some stuff to a swap meet. I found some ball joints that I can not remember what they are. They are MOOG but none of the catalogs list them.
I have a pair of lower joints stamped "Moog Problem solver 5651" I also found a used lower ball joint with the same 5651 number stamped but no "Problem solver" and it is much shorter.
Also an upper that is just stamped "5730"
Any one have clue?